Czechia: Faith, Tales and a Devoted Spirit

In a city of history and struggle, the struggle of Christian faith and tales, the wonderous architecture, crafts and design, and the preservation of a smallest thing, moved me dearly.

The old tale of Prague Spring still wanders around in the hymn to the daring who walked on the edge of politics; the mass congregation in the glory of the God sung and upheld holy for long; the city that stood resolute through Thirty Year’s War, the two World Wars – all the most catastrophic; the focus of art, beauty, culture and history. Prague has started to amaze me with its complexity and appeal.

When walking on the streets, I can read the city’s history like reading a book which blends many different narrative, that altogether creates interesting effects. The oldest stories are woven into the heavy stone walls of Romanesque churches and rise to the sky with the slender pinnacles of Gothic churches. However, the diverse mosaic of Prague’s historical centre is complemented by equally valuable examples of modern architecture and designs, and a culture fascinating. 

Not So Christian, But So Christian

Founded during the Romanesque and flourishing by the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque eras, Prague was not only the capital of the Czech state, but also the seat of two Holy Roman Emperors and thus also the capital of the Holy Roman Empire.

However, strangely enough, Czech Republic was more atheist than Christian, although the more than 40% of its population, Christian, are most likely devout Catholic.

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St. Ludmila, the dominant feature of Náměstí Míru (The Square of Peace)

Fortunate enough, I was able to attend a sunday Mass at Saint Vitus Cathedral with Martin’s help. Brought out in atheist society, I was not informed too much about religion. It was quite magical in that I felt I was embraced by something encompassing, not necessarily the grace of God (as I did not feel him, I must say), but a collective spiritual stream that became sublime in the process of prayer, singing, and quiet thougths that only everyone there know. Even though I don’t understand the language because the Mass was done in Latin, Dutch and Czech.

My visit coincide witht the XXXI World Youth Day Krakow 2016. In the Church, I witnesses groups of young people, devout, passionate and full of possibility, united under a common belief, and engaged in passionate singing of ‘Blessed are the merciful, for they shall obtain mercy’ (Mt 5:7), which is the theme of this year’s youth day. It was fortunate of me to see this vitality and re-evaluate the strength of a united belief and the effects it has on people and society.

Karl Marx once claimed religion “the opium of the masses”, but I had little understanding as to what it concretizes into. In this case, I wish to refrain from judgement and express my sincere gratitude to be able to be here, and to alter my mindset to observe what was deemed “divine at its very presence”. As someone raised in an atheist family, with limited exposure to Buddhist temples, it was an experience of awe, reflection, respect, and thankfulness.

After all, we all appreciate the values to do good to the world, and that should definitely be embraced.

Squares, Tales and Martyrs

 The Old Town Square of Prague is one of the most popular tourist attractions, historical heritage and popular gathering space. The square features various architectural styles including the Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn, which has been the main church of this part of the city since the 14th century.

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The clear hierarchy of male and female can be clearly seen here. The taller and bigger tower is the male, as no one would feel surprised about. However, I was “fascinated” as to how the tourists, especiallly groups, took this for granted when they were introduced of this fact, and I was not so sure if they simply took it as a historical fact of still continue to perceive the power structure in a certain way, as I saw some of them nodding with a crooky smile.

It was also a struggle between the Hussites and the Catholic. The church was occupied by the Hussites for more than two centuries. Thus, nearby in the square is a statue of the religious reformer Jan Hus, who for his beliefs was burned at the stake in Constance, this led to the Hussite Wars.

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St. Ludmila, the dominant feature of Náměstí Míru (The Square of Peace)

Speaking of martys, there is another tale in about the maker of Prague Orloj, the medieval astronomical clock located on the Old Town Hall. The legend, recounted by Alois Jirásek, has it that the clockmaker Hanuš, after building the clock, was blinded on the order of the Prague Councillors so that he could not repeat his work; in turn, he disabled the clock, and no one was able to repair it for the next hundred years. However, after some research, this turned out to be a hisotorical mistake, for the clock was made by clockmaker Mikuláš of Kadaň and Jan Šindel.

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Some Cute Enjoyment

Top 12 Europe’s Most Impressive Metro Station

I have had the chance to bump into what is obviously a fame, the Staroměstská underground station in Prague for it was claimed to have one of the most interesting and beautiful designs.

Impressed by its distinctive dimpled metal tunnel walls, Staroměstská is the among the most visited and photographed stations.

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The design runs through the subway A line in Prague, with each station a different color.
They look like something from the dystopian film “A Clockwork Orange,” but the bubble-wrap design actually strengthens the metal.
To me, this creates a dazzling effect where visual illusions seem to be applied here. When inside the train after it got started, I feel a strange sense of time traveling created by the stream of color out on the wall flowying past quicker and quicker.
This is indeed among the best visual spectacles. I would love to look into some more of these examples of great designs for public transportations or utilities.

That is Where You Feel the History

Paternoster, a name that was so foreign to be, now was brought to me, along the nolstagic feelings that it necessitates.

In Prague, škodův palác (Škoda Palace), I got to use one of these old elevators that carries with them the connotation of danger, outdated, but also history and development. The paternoster consists of a chain of open compartments that move slowly in a loop up and down inside a building without stopping for passengers to step on or off at any floor they like.

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The construction of new paternosters was stopped in the mid-1970s due to safety concerns, but public sentiment has kept many of the remaining examples open. By far most remaining paternosters are in Western Europe, with perhaps 230 examples in Germany, and 68 in the Czech Republic. 

First patented by British engineer Peter Hart in 1877, Paternosters were popular throughout the first half of the 20th century because they could carry more passengers than ordinary elevators. Although they are rather slow elevators, typically traveling at about 0.3 metres per second, to facilitate getting on and off successfully.

It was an experience, not big whatsoever, and “stupidly touristic” to many, but it just struck me as an example of the past – a past that after rapidly developing and trying to discard what is “outdated”, get to survive. The people played an important role in this, for sure, because it was because of a collective will to preserve that eventually saved these from demolition, although I do agree that extra safety measures should be taken to keep the passengers out of danger.

It is a reminder for us all that we do not forget where we started, while we do not let the past stop us from moving forward.

I hope in this world rapidly modernizing, that semtiment could be preserved.
As an end word, Czech Republic has just gained its new name official as “Czechia” so as to refer to it in short. In the spirit of my friend Martin, I would like to honor the decision and his preference by saying,

Czechia is a feast for me, and it is wonderous. 

 

 

The Unbearable Heaviness of Propaganda

In Prague, in National Memorial where I pondered on the preservation of a body and Hussite Movement in light of propaganda.

Walking in the former Mausoleum in the place of the current National Memorial at Vítkov with the somewhat horrendous but wondrous tale of the preserved body of the dead communist president Klement Gottwald, I have come across one of the most direct experience with intense state propaganda. While it was funny to see Milan Kundera mentioned in the memorial along with other influential political leaders just because the sheer contrast in it, it nevertheless fits that the propaganda, as I am going to discuss today in this post, fits perfectly in reference to his most famous work The Unbearable Lightness of Being. 

The Ridiculously Extreme Body Preservation

First of all, a bit of context.

Klement Gottwald was the first communist Czechoslovak president and was strongly upheld as one of the forerunner to be looked toward. 

He was very close to Soviet and pursued extreme-left policy when he was still just a deputy of the Party. The policies in the early 30s were oriented against the First Republic official policy. Consequently, a warrant has been issued against him to cause him to flee to Soviet Union, where he ended up again after the Munich agreement in 1938.

Starting from 1946 when the communists won the election, he became the Prime Minister. Then there was the coup d’ etat of the 1948, the “Victorious February” when he became the President of the Republic. Of course, there followed Stalinization, collectivization of agriculture and destruction of civil society. Forced labor camps and executions of political prisoners were among the notorious things done under his government.

However, the party is willing enough to go full of propaganda, totally mindblowing to me. Apart from “normal scheme” done by all sorts of authoritarian governments when mass media is controlled, popular cultures filtered and monitored, everywhere existence of the ideological presence, the state took THIS decision.

The Communist Party decided to embalm his body and expose it to the public after the fashion of Lenin.

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Chamber where the body used to be

Ok, it is not a quote of someone. However, I just thought it was really a horrifying idea – that regardless of whether the president himself wishes his body to be constantly treated, filled with special chemicals, and looked at with various emotions or feelings, it was a DECISION made and that was all it mattered – how power could be best kept in the hands of the people that were in power. 

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Entry to the Underground Lab (Centre)

 

Elaborate measures were taken so the body could last long. Therefore, an underground lab was built, rooms for doctors and nurses on duty, changing rooms, a machine room, a control room, storage area and also extensive air-conditioning system keeping the body in constant temperature and preventing it from decay.

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I don’t think we have even gone that far with Mao, the first leader of the Chinese Communist Party and of the People’s Republic of China. We had stopped at monuments and pictures up hanging in the Tiananmen Square. But this was just like, Wow.

Wow.

The ‘Many Life’ of Hussite Movement

The Hussites (Husité or Kališníci; “Chalice People”) were a Christian movement in the Kingdom of Bohemia following the teachings of Czech reformer Jan Hus (c. 1369–1415), who became the best-known representative of the Bohemian Reformation and one of the forerunners of the Protestant Reformation against the Catholic Church and the Holy Roman Empire.

The Hussite theme started to circulate again in Czech lands at the turn of 18th and 19th centuries. It was influenced respectively by two schools of thoughts- Enlightenment and Romanticism.

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Flag of Hussite Movement

Hussites: Four Articles of Prague

Mostly, in summary, the Hussites believe in these things that are quite different (even radically) from what was preached by Catholic Church at the time:

  • Freedom to preach the word of God
  • Celebration of the communion under both kinds (bread and wine to priests and laity alike)
  • Poverty of the clergy and expropriation of church property;
  • Punishment for mortal sins i.e. the punishment of notorious sinners, among whom prostitutes are singled out for special attention

 

Habsburg ‘1st Life’ of the Movement

The state propaganda of the Habsburg Monarchy played a major role in spreading the
“legend” of Hussite warfare, using it during the wars against Napoleonic France to rouse resistance against the French armies. Personalities in the medieval movement became subjects of academic and professional interests. In particular in the romanticism, the Hussite leaders were depicted as strong and resolute personalities and freedom fighters.

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Hussite Wars Depiction

‘2nd Life’: Formation of the Modern Identity of the Czech Nation

The rehabilitation of the Hussite movement came with the man named Frantisek Palacky, who reevaluated the era positively in his History of Bohemia. In the later half of the 19th century, the representations infiltrated into the popular culture and in the formation of a modern Czech identity.

It is amazing how a nation revive an ancient tale of knights and heroes, peasants taking power in their hands to fight the enemies(at which time is the Holy Roman Empire even), to construct its modern identity. A sweep of reference to the movement occurred:

  • Naming of public spaces after Hussite heros
  • Unveiling of the monuments dedicated to their honor
  • Decorating of houses with related motifs
  • Patriotic men and women dressed and adorned themselves with emblems
  • Performing and public craze for theatre plays inspired by this past

These are elements that showed how much the movement, as a form of a successful propaganda that took strong hold within a nation, had started to define a country and of course, was necessarily politicized.

It was a symbol of challenge, of defiance to a subordinate group – in the original story’s case, the Catholic and the Holy Roman Empire, and in the context of the late 19th CE and the ealry 20th CE, an urgent call for independence from the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Later on, it also evolved to become part of an ideology. The Czechslovak Church was built on Hussite tradition, supposedly served as a national alternative to Catholicism and to support state ideology, but this move might have embittered the Catholics and other groups within the diverse, at the time newly formed, Czechoslovak Republic.

‘3rd Life’ : The Selective Utilization of History

After the rise of communism within the country, the Hussite movement was explored again to support communist ideology of struggle to legitimize the new political order. Extensive campaigns were launched, in cultural activities, massive exhibitions, scientific works, arts and films, to depict the movement as predecessor of communism. Certainly the religious aspects were deliberately weakened because communism preaches atheism(or rather ‘religion is the opium for the masses’). Attention was put on warfare – as fight against both internal and external enemies. It became ironic, of course, to take a hindsight perspective on it after the fall of the authoritarian regime.

The Unbearable Lightness of Being explores the intellectual life after the invasion of Soviet Union into Czechoslovakia and three other Warsaw Pact countries – and its aftermath. It challenges Friedrich Nietzsche’s concept of eternal recurrence, that each person has one life to live and one only – the lightness of being. However, the existence of propaganda persists on, shaped into different form, but follows the same principle over and over again, sometimes gradual and implicit, sometimes sudden and horrendous.

Heaviness, yeah. The universe and its events have already occurred and will recur.

You know there are places where propaganda resurrects, and it is worth rethinking.

 

 

Reference:
First-hand Experience in the National Memorial – sadly I forgot to bring SD card for my camera, so the photos are not taken by me.
Wikipedia for certain information check and reference.
National Memorial.