Czechia: Faith, Tales and a Devoted Spirit

The old tale of Prague Spring still wanders around in the hymn to the daring who walked on the edge of politics; the mass congregation in the glory of the God sung and upheld holy for long; the city that stood resolute through Thirty Year’s War, the two World Wars – all the most catastrophic; the focus of art, beauty, culture and history. Prague has started to amaze me with its complexity and appeal.

When walking on the streets, I can read the city’s history like reading a book which blends many different narrative, that altogether creates interesting effects. The oldest stories are woven into the heavy stone walls of Romanesque churches and rise to the sky with the slender pinnacles of Gothic churches. However, the diverse mosaic of Prague’s historical centre is complemented by equally valuable examples of modern architecture and designs, and a culture fascinating. 

Not So Christian, But So Christian

Founded during the Romanesque and flourishing by the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque eras, Prague was not only the capital of the Czech state, but also the seat of two Holy Roman Emperors and thus also the capital of the Holy Roman Empire.

However, strangely enough, Czech Republic was more atheist than Christian, although the more than 40% of its population, Christian, are most likely devout Catholic.

St. Ludmila, the dominant feature of Náměstí Míru (The Square of Peace)

Fortunate enough, I was able to attend a sunday Mass at Saint Vitus Cathedral with Martin’s help. Brought out in atheist society, I was not informed too much about religion. It was quite magical in that I felt I was embraced by something encompassing, not necessarily the grace of God (as I did not feel him, I must say), but a collective spiritual stream that became sublime in the process of prayer, singing, and quiet thougths that only everyone there know. Even though I don’t understand the language because the Mass was done in Latin, Dutch and Czech.

My visit coincide witht the XXXI World Youth Day Krakow 2016. In the Church, I witnesses groups of young people, devout, passionate and full of possibility, united under a common belief, and engaged in passionate singing of ‘Blessed are the merciful, for they shall obtain mercy’ (Mt 5:7), which is the theme of this year’s youth day. It was fortunate of me to see this vitality and re-evaluate the strength of a united belief and the effects it has on people and society.

Karl Marx once claimed religion “the opium of the masses”, but I had little understanding as to what it concretizes into. In this case, I wish to refrain from judgement and express my sincere gratitude to be able to be here, and to alter my mindset to observe what was deemed “divine at its very presence”. As someone raised in an atheist family, with limited exposure to Buddhist temples, it was an experience of awe, reflection, respect, and thankfulness.

After all, we all appreciate the values to do good to the world, and that should definitely be embraced.

Squares, Tales and Martyrs

 The Old Town Square of Prague is one of the most popular tourist attractions, historical heritage and popular gathering space. The square features various architectural styles including the Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn, which has been the main church of this part of the city since the 14th century.

The clear hierarchy of male and female can be clearly seen here. The taller and bigger tower is the male, as no one would feel surprised about. However, I was “fascinated” as to how the tourists, especiallly groups, took this for granted when they were introduced of this fact, and I was not so sure if they simply took it as a historical fact of still continue to perceive the power structure in a certain way, as I saw some of them nodding with a crooky smile.

It was also a struggle between the Hussites and the Catholic. The church was occupied by the Hussites for more than two centuries. Thus, nearby in the square is a statue of the religious reformer Jan Hus, who for his beliefs was burned at the stake in Constance, this led to the Hussite Wars.

St. Ludmila, the dominant feature of Náměstí Míru (The Square of Peace)

Speaking of martys, there is another tale in about the maker of Prague Orloj, the medieval astronomical clock located on the Old Town Hall. The legend, recounted by Alois Jirásek, has it that the clockmaker Hanuš, after building the clock, was blinded on the order of the Prague Councillors so that he could not repeat his work; in turn, he disabled the clock, and no one was able to repair it for the next hundred years. However, after some research, this turned out to be a hisotorical mistake, for the clock was made by clockmaker Mikuláš of Kadaň and Jan Šindel.

Some Cute Enjoyment

Top 12 Europe’s Most Impressive Metro Station

I have had the chance to bump into what is obviously a fame, the Staroměstská underground station in Prague for it was claimed to have one of the most interesting and beautiful designs.

Impressed by its distinctive dimpled metal tunnel walls, Staroměstská is the among the most visited and photographed stations.

The design runs through the subway A line in Prague, with each station a different color.

They look like something from the dystopian film “A Clockwork Orange,” but the bubble-wrap design actually strengthens the metal.

To me, this creates a dazzling effect where visual illusions seem to be applied here. When inside the train after it got started, I feel a strange sense of time traveling created by the stream of color out on the wall flowying past quicker and quicker.

This is indeed among the best visual spectacles. I would love to look into some more of these examples of great designs for public transportations or utilities.

That is Where You Feel the History

Paternoster, a name that was so foreign to be, now was brought to me, along the nolstagic feelings that it necessitates.

In Prague, škodův palác (Škoda Palace), I got to use one of these old elevators that carries with them the connotation of danger, outdated, but also history and development. The paternoster consists of a chain of open compartments that move slowly in a loop up and down inside a building without stopping for passengers to step on or off at any floor they like.

The construction of new paternosters was stopped in the mid-1970s due to safety concerns, but public sentiment has kept many of the remaining examples open. By far most remaining paternosters are in Western Europe, with perhaps 230 examples in Germany, and 68 in the Czech Republic. 

First patented by British engineer Peter Hart in 1877, Paternosters were popular throughout the first half of the 20th century because they could carry more passengers than ordinary elevators. Although they are rather slow elevators, typically traveling at about 0.3 metres per second, to facilitate getting on and off successfully.

It was an experience, not big whatsoever, and “stupidly touristic” to many, but it just struck me as an example of the past – a past that after rapidly developing and trying to discard what is “outdated”, get to survive. The people played an important role in this, for sure, because it was because of a collective will to preserve that eventually saved these from demolition, although I do agree that extra safety measures should be taken to keep the passengers out of danger.

It is a reminder for us all that we do not forget where we started, while we do not let the past stop us from moving forward.

I hope in this world rapidly modernizing, that semtiment could be preserved.
As an end word, Czech Republic has just gained its new name official as “Czechia” so as to refer to it in short. In the spirit of my friend Martin, I would like to honor the decision and his preference by saying,

Czechia is a feast for me, and it is wonderous. 

 

 

Prague: Public Space, Drinking and Surprising Music

Despite the city’s fame for being a heaven for alcohol lovers – which I have no dispute on – I found something quite fascinating about how public spaces are used, and how there was a dynamic and vastly different atmosphere to an outsider like me.

Street Piano

In Prague, it is not uncommon for you to come across something like this: a lonely piano in the streets, with perfect conditions to be played and a nice little chair kindly put in the front – or course chained to the piano so you cannot take it away for sneaky reasons. It is a static beauty in the swarm of people current flushing by. Sunshine as dressing, wind as anthem, making you stop by to ponder on what it is.

 

Street Piano Installed at Faculty of Philosophy(Charles University) in Staromestska        Photo: Victoria Yaqing Yang

I was so fascinated, so are many.

Recently, a policeman in Prague played an excerpt from “Yiruma – River Flows in You”, thus bringing these street pianos into spotlight.

 

It turned out that this is a project named “Piána na ulici” (Street Pianos), initiated by a couple of enthusiasts who seek to make cities more special and lively places. There are pianos randomly placed in public areas, in perfect condition and ready to be played.

The mastermind behind the project, Ondrej Kobza, is a quirky and well known personality in the Prague underground community, as well as a popular bar owner, and he says that this project is changing the face of Prague’s social scene.

Street Piano Installed at Faculty of Philosophy(Charles University) in Staromestska        Photo: Victoria Yaqing Yang

The sound of piano interacts with the dynamic environment of the streets, and especially how it can create interesting magic effect with the traffic. I happened to walk past this man playing. I could not detect which piece of music he is playing, but it was flowing smoothly, calm but has an underlying pulse. With the people walking past him, in normal footstep, it somehow created an implicit interaction. People would unconsciously simulate their footsteps towards the one played by the music, or stop to taste the musicality, like me and Martin(friend).

This concept is increasingly gaining momentum inside Czech Republic and beyond. A similar project, or artwork Play Me, I’m Yours by British artist Luke Jerram has reached over 10 million people worldwide – more than 1,500 pianos have already been installed in over 50 cities across the globe, from London to New York, bearing the simple instruction Play Me, I’m Yours. This sort of project encourages the public to engage with, activate, and take ownership of their urban environment – which we gradually deem as not part of OUR space.

I feel awesome. It calls for us to reclaim the idea that public spaces are to be enjoyed by all, instead of a cold, senseless, dull space that people quickly pass by to head to their own home. 

Locations of Piana Na Ulici (Pianos in the Streets) in Czech Republic

 

 

Parks and Social Squad

This might not be a distinctive things to many, but for someone like me, raised in China and having vastly different experiences with parks, this is something.

In Prague, many people like to spend time in a park on the soft grass, alone but mostly with other people. Sunbathing, drinking, chatting, sleeping, picnicking, doing yoga, you name it. The parks are so well-connected with the surroundings that people can suddenly find themselves in a park, without any sort of barrier or gate, and not even a transition.

Hanging Out in a Park

It is another sign of an emphasis on making the public spaces more accessible and intimate to the people, and it worked perfectly. Between the cozy houses and historical buildings and churches, the parks provide a piece of green space, reminding us all that we are part of the nature still, that we should remain that way. In the hustle of the urban world, it is rare for me to have that feeling of being embraced.

Drinking carries on here as well. You don’t have to hide your bottles when police drop by. Carry on with having fun – or maybe invite the police for one beer ? – and as long as you clean after yourself and stay far from making troubles, you will be fine. Although I think that alcohol has made us gradually lose the ability to socialize normally and interactively without it, it nevertheless brings people good time in the park setting.

When I was lying on the soft grass and enjoying the sunshine, I wish I could lie there forever.

 

What Is China doing with Parks then?

As much as I have some personal grievances with how people in China use parks, I must say that it is an interactive environment as well, just in a different way.

1st Exercise

Parks are often used as free gym by many, that people would go to these cute facilities and get their bodies moving. I have no opinions against this, for I think it is a cheap and enjoying way of relaxation and fun.

2nd Square Dancing

You will see mass squad of people, most of them are old, dancing in parks with loud music. Parks become community space here, integrated into the daily lives of people. However, I would definitely have appreciated more if the music is not disturbingly loud or still on at 9:30 pm in the evening. That was not so nice.

3rd: Tai Ji ( or Tai Chi)

Beijing residents practice Tai Chi Chuan(Tai Ji Quan), a traditional Chinese martial art, at a park. (Photo by Andrew Wong/Getty Images)

 

It is interesting for me to cross compare how public spaces are treated and used in Prague and in China (or rather my limited knowledge of it).

After all, it is important that we do not let the concrete halls that separate the sky and view stop us from being creative, from having surprises in the most mundane of daily living. 

Music on, beer open, dance started. Hope that happens in every corner of the world.

 

 

References:

http://www.streetpianos.com/

Image Source:

Locations of Piana Na Ulici (Pianos in the Streets) in Czech Republic:  http://www.piananaulici.cz/piana-na-ulici

policeman playing: youtube

Hanging Out in a Park: Google images

 

 

Christiania: A State within a State

A unique existence unseen in other parts of the world, a free-state proclaimed within one of the most stable states in the world, Christiania, in the borough of Christianshavn in Copenhagen, amazed me with the audacity of such an experiment, the insistence of its people and the struggle for freedom.

The area of Christiania  is a 84-acre enclave consisting of the former military barracks of Bådsmandsstræde, but the apathetic, steel-cold touch of the “forbidden military area” has been transformed into a haven of creative expression, challenge to authority and communal love and living – everything that I can associate with the hipsters.

Indeed, the founding of the Christiania, as I was told by Sofie (who brought me to Christiania) along with some pre-reading, originates as a protest against the Danish government because at the time there was a lack of affordable housing in Copenhagen. Whether the takeover of the former military barracks was contended, but it coincided with the the hippie movement, the squatter movement, collectivism and anarchism at the time in the 70s.

Burst of Freedom 

On 26 September 1971, Christiania was proclaimed open by Jacob Ludvigsen, a well-known provo and journalist who published a successful magazine called Hovedbladet (‘The main paper’). In the paper, he wrote an article about an exploration into what he termed ‘The Forbidden City of the Military’:

Christiania is the land of the settlers. It is the so far biggest opportunity to build up a society from scratch – while nevertheless still incorporating the remaining constructions. Own electricity plant, a bath-house, a giant athletics building, where all the seekers of peace could have their grand meditation – and yoga center. Halls where theater groups can feel at home. Buildings for the stoners who are too paranoid and weak to participate in the race…Yes for those who feel the beating of the pioneer heart there can be no doubt as to the purpose of Christiania. It is the part of the city which has been kept secret to us – but no more.

Ludvigsen was co-author of Christiania’s mission statement, dating from 1971, which offers the following:

The objective of Christiania is to create a self-governing society whereby each and every individual holds themselves responsible over the wellbeing of the entire community. Our society is to be economically self-sustaining and, as such, our aspiration is to be steadfast in our conviction that psychological and physical destitution can be averted.

The sense of Christiania being a social experiment is therefore strong. It has been changing, not necessarily for the better, but the sense of it being an ideal states have been there from the very beginning. According to Tom Freston, whose article published on Vanity Fair in 2013, portrays Christiania in its early stage in 1972 as “more of a festival to me than a society”. Everything was so mesmerizing. Thousands of young Danes – feminists, anarchists, hippies, artists were turning their back on straight society and have created this idealistic world they inhabit now. When I was scrolling in the streets, hotch-potch of warehouses, huts, houses, beautifully colorful murals and grotesque sculptures captured my eyes. A front facade of a house was painted green with a peaceful-looking Buddha sitting on a lotus flower, with a man (perhaps the artist himself) sitting right below it, talking to his friend next-door. The famous Danish musician Lukas Graham was born and raised in Christiania, and I think his artistic spirit was definitely nurtured well.

Overtime, Christiania has evolved into a somewhat exclusive community because it wishes to retain the progressive, artistic characteristic it sets out with. If you wishes to live there, you can’t just buy a house or apartment and move it – you have to be recommended by a resident there. 

This might be one of the few places where rich money throwers are handicapped. 

Architecture

Christiania is full of houses built by residents themselves, entirely catering to their artistic choice. As I was walking along the twisted, somewhat unmended, trails with my friend, I have seen some of the most peculiar architectures unexpectedly.

Tiny UFO House

This tiny house situated beside a lake, with its glass windows opening up the views of the sky and the lake – something I find all Danes are very fond of. The color scheme establishes nice contrast with the surrounding, thus bringing the tiny house into prominence. A small dock outside the house for coffee and relaxing time with friend is a perfect accessory to the already brilliant design.

Tiny UFO House

When I walked past this house, I was thoroughly amazed. The person living there must be very interesting. The glass windows serves as good source of light, with the roof being a possible playground for children to use as a slide. The shape of the roof encloses the little space in the middle, bringing a sense of Danish hygge(cozziness). Privacy is paramount, as I can feel from the house. It was lucky of me because I could only see this because we accidentally found this little messy trail that led to this great view.

Tiny UFO House

This house is idiosyncratic of “modern architecture without architect”.

 

True Anarchy or No? 

As the occupation of Christiania took place, there has always been struggle between the people on this land and the government. It has also very interesting features associated.

Own Constitution, Anthem and Flag

Christiania has its own constitution called “Christiania’s Common Laws”, which are basically a collection of Dos and Don’ts.

The Do’s: “Love each other, play music, kiss, burp, feed your turtle, have babies, pick flowers, go to the toilet, have a bonfire.”

The Dont’s: “No weapons, no hard drugs, no violence, no private cars, no bikers colours, no bulletproof clothing, no sale of fireworks, no use of thunderflashes, no stolen goods.”

The 1976 protest song I kan ikke slå os ihjel (“You cannot kill us”), written by Tom Lunden of flower power rock group Bifrost, became the unofficial anthem of Christiania.

Freetown Christiania

They even have their own flag! The three dots symbolizes the three ‘i’s in the Christiania.

The free-spirited land cannot be even more quirky to me:).

Bitter Negotiation – Struggle for continuance

At the beginning, people living there refused to pay taxes. The houses were unkept, streets getting trashed more day after day. Therefore, since 1994, residents have paid taxes and fees for water, electricity, trash disposal, etc.

Another issue is land-ownership. The Danish government threatened to evict the residents there because they did not own the land they currently live on. Therefore, in June 2011, the residents of Christiania agreed (very reluctantly because Christianites opposed the idea of private property) to collectively set up a fund to formally purchase the land at below market prices.The community made its first payment in July 2012, officially becoming legal landowners. However, it is interesting to note that the land is bought as shares – which means that it is not a single individual that owned a specific piece of land but all owns all, something very much aligned with communist spirit.

A resident there explained:

We now pay double for half the freedom, considering the interest cost and increased rent. We have moved into a capitalist structure. Money talks now. It’s possible for the state to keep turning the wheel on the rent and the banks to keep making the interest higher. It will be harder and harder for older people, disabled people, to keep a home here.”“[i]f we do not keep up our payments, we have three months’ notice and the state can throw everybody out.

It is a question that has been asked for so long: to what extent should we sacrifice freedom in exchange for an umbrella protection or a conformity to the collective? It is a question to be reevaluated.

Drugs

One of the most famous ‘selling point’ of Christiania is its main drag, known as Pusher Street(named Greenlight District there), where hash and skunk weed were sold openly from permanent stands until 2004. The struggle has been very bitter because it was hard to reach a consensus on this. In the campaign against hard drugs (such as heroin), the Junk Blockade was launched by Christianites. For 40 days and nights, men, women, and children patrolled ‘The Arc of Peace’ and whenever they found junkies or pushers they gave them an ultimatum: either quit all activities with hard drugs or leave Christiania. In the end, the pushers were forced to leave, and sixty people entered drug rehabilitation. It was a huge success in the history of Christiania.

However, the Cannabis trade continues in Christiania. There has evolved a distinct way to purchase drugs secretly – for drugs are illegal in Denmark. I did not get to know such process because I had no such intent, but I could feel the vigilance in the Pusher Street when I walked past – the glances from the men and women there seemingly to inspect something. I did not acquire any photos thereof, for it is known that photo-taking devices will be forcibly taken away from tourists like me because the sensitivity of the trade.

The drug trade has been a constant political discussion in Denmark, particularly regarding Christiania. So far, as the chart below shows, the support side wins with a small margin of practicality.

Proponent	Opponent
concentrating the hash trade at one place would limit its dispersion in society	Universal principle to ban drug trade – Christiania and elsewhere
Could prevent users from switching to ‘harder drugs’	No differentiation between soft and hard drugs
Open cannabis trade was one of Copenhagen’s major tourist attractions	It scared other potential tourists away.
Even though the police have attempted to stop the drug trade, the cannabis market is still thriving in Christiania.

Indeed, as I have heard, after a violent and thorough crackdown of drug sales, with arrest of several pushers, the hash deal would restart in a few days with some different dealers selling the exact same thing. Furthermore, it is argued that the politicians always emphasize the most illegal part of the freetown (the Cannabis trade), associate it with other criminal factors such as gangsters, in order to confuse the public, blurring the basis of the free state of Christiania and thus reduce sympathy and support. I could see that Christianites reluctantly took the deal about the land purchase as said above could be a result of this.

Christiania is a fascinating wonder, and I am fortunate to have been there on July 14th, 2016. Its creativity and challenge to authority will remain a legacy of Denmark and a message that tourists like me with bring back home.

Let freedom rise!